Cortland Street stop, N/R

For 4 years up until September 10, 2001, I often took the N/R subway to work, getting on at 8th Street and getting off at Cortlandt Street, where passengers were disgorged into the huge underground mall below the World Trade Center. I would track past hundreds of commuters, a J.Crew, a Gap, a Sephora; perhaps I’d get a cafe latte from New World Coffee, at the North-east base of the North tower, before heading though its entrance hall on my way to the pedestrian bridge that led to the World Financial Center.

Soon after Sept 11, 2001, the N/R train resumed its service, but without stopping at Cortlandt Street. The first few days, passengers would look up from their doings and stare quietly out the carriage windows at the wooden support struts that had been hastily built. In orange spray paint on the walls, “DO NOT STOP,” conductors were told. After a few months, as the salvage efforts on Ground Zero progressed, the station was cleaned up, and the struts disappeared. People no longer looked up or grew quiet as we passed the station.

Yesterday, for the first time, out of the corner of my eye, I noticed a bright spot where the mall was. Today, I confirmed it: the exit that used to take me to the mall has been opened by workers, and it leads to bright daylight.

I’ve grappled with the idea that in my head, the mental map I’ve built up from years of walking through the World Trade Center still exists, even though the place does not. Until today, subconsciously, the mall still existed behind those boarded-up doors.

In the same way, being kept away from the actual site of the disaster protected me from having to update this map, but as of yesterday, they let you walk all along the southern perimeter of Ground Zero, with an unobstructed view of the site, much like any construction site. I walked by there. You can clearly see the rebuilding of the 1/9 subway line, as well as many partly demolished subterranean levels. I’d seen some of this before from our office’s window at Falkor LLC, but being right next to it, on the ground, makes it all a lot more immediate. Go and have a look if you haven’t been recently.

Perfect Day (May 5, 2002)

On Sunday (May 5, 2002) New York experienced one of those periodic perfect days famously eulogized by Lou Reed. The weather was exactly as it had last been the week of September 11, 2001: impossibly sharp, dry and mild. But instead of triggering unsettling memories, it framed a city that felt fresh and strong, a role model to the world for tolerance and the right to be in your face.

My walk that day took me towards Broadway along 7th street. Between 2nd Avenue and the Bowery, the Ukrainian Orthodox Church was emptying its brood of conservatively dressed Easter worshippers. Or perhaps they were on a smoking break from the infamously long ceremony, and as the men milled in the street cigarette packs collectively emerged from Soyuz-colored jackets adorned with mottled ties.

Soon they’d be off their favorite deli, for the pirogis and the blinis, but I was on my way to Strand Books, on Broadway and 12th, looking for Tom Segev’s One Palestine, Complete. I’d read a few chapters at my parents’ place over a year ago, and really liked it, but left before I could finish it. This book has become even more topical this past year, because the events in the three decades before Israel’s independence are grist for the mutually incompatible histories taught today in Palestinian and Israeli schools. It is unusual for these orthodoxies of victimization and entitlement to be appraised in light of an impartial account of the historical facts.

I eventually found the book in Barnes & Noble on Union Square, but not until after wading through the Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival, which mainly involved a lot of rap music. Off I went with my book to Tompkins Square park, intending to soak up a few hours of reading on a dappled grassy knoll, but that plan was loudly nixed by a massive daylight techno rave that had many of the improbably pierced jerking around colorfully to 180 beats per minute.

The backup plan was the garden on 6th and B. As I exited the park to the Southeast, I noticed a slow procession coming up 7th street from Avenue C. I approached what turned out to be a Cinco de Mayo tribute to San Martin de Pobres, whose idol was being slowly pall-borne by very serious-looking mature Hispanic men. The small brass band did its best, but was increasingly forced to parry the several-thousand watt-strong thump thump thumps rolling over the east village.

I finally did make it to my reading spot, but not without first appreciating that only in New York can a neighborhood stroll serve up so much cultural cacophony. And I didn’t even go see the Cuban Day parade held that day, or the 42-mile bike tour across the 5 boroughs, or the protests pro and contra Israeli and Palestinian policy. I will miss this city.

Emoliate: Now in Google!

In Jamaica last week, an otherwise disappointing Scrabble game against Simon Clark did yield one fine bingo on my part, which he did not challenge, but later said was not a real word. EMOLIATE may not be in the Official Scrabble Player’s dictionary, but I did a search for emoliate on google and it is clearly a word, as evinced by these web excerpts:

By “facile translations” I just mean that a successful syntax, accompanied by its repertory shows of suitable transformations, ought to be able to emulate and to emoliate the support skids of the near-automatic performances of properly-trained humans in shifting back and forth between geometric pictures of sets in extensional gear and functional pictures of predicates and properties in intensional gear, in semiotic trajectories that can be recognized as not being incognizant of external worlds, whether on the globe of earth or in ethereal platonic spheres.

And:

Old ideas of love and romance and passion have become silly, and, by modern biological standards, sick and demeaning. But we are left with an aching need for love, romance, passion, and self-emoliation.

And:

According to the Nei Jing (Inner Classic), the liver’s function of coursing and discharge is dependent upon the liver’s obtaining sufficient blood to nourish and emoliate it.

Finally, this beautiful and moving poem leaves no doubt as to what the word means.

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Anagrammed friends

Today’s post is brought to you courtesy of the Internet Anagram Server, responsible for hours upon hours of immature snickering at expense of friends’ names. Here’s what I’ve managed to come up with so far.

EUROF UPPINGTON = PFENNIG OUTPOUR (he lives in Frankfurt, after all)

EPHRAT LIVNI = HIP INTERVAL

TONJE VETLESETER = NOVELETTE JESTER

TANYA EPSTEIN = INSTANT PAYEE (she’s a lawyer)

KIMBERLEY STRASSEL = TIMELESSLY BARKERS (thanks Felix)

But the piece de resistance is without doubt this eerily accurate hat trick:

CLARICE ANNEGERS = SACRILEGE CANNER, GLANCE INCREASER, CARNAGE LICENSER

Then, when you’re finished, read up on the latest meme: Googlewhacking. My first: defenestrate lentils. My second: monaural saltpeter. Be warned, this is highly addictive, yet harder than you think.

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Salmon has now gone mad

Salmon has now gone mad. Just this weekend, he’s posted no fewer than 2 new pieces on l’affair Sullivan — an affair, I hasten to add, which he single-handedly created.

He seems to be an expert at following up a valid point with something completely barmy. Here’s an example:

“Austerlitz had another effect on me, too: I intend to go out later today and purchase a small pocket camera which I can load with black and white film and carry around with me at all times, in much the same way as Sebald did.” (my italics)

Salmon also seems to have a huge chip on his shoulder that Romenesko doesn’t link to him, seeing the mediagossip supremo as a prime mover in the Liberal Media Conspiracy. Bollocks, Felix: Romenesko doesn’t link to you because you don’t provide fixed links!

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