Stefan Greens

Steve Greens, Steven Genes, Stephen Jeans–I’ve seen all possible permutations of my name written or pronounced by those unfamiliar with the soft lilt of the Flemish dialect. I’ve come to expect such mauling and quite happily lower my expectations for the sake of my sanity. Hence, in Oslo Airport, when the public address system announced, “Will Stefan Greens please go to the information counter,” I gladly complied.

Once there, I identified myself, but was met with a puzzled look. “You’re Stefan Geens,” the woman behind the counter said, glancing up from my passport, “not Greens.” I said I know, often people make a mistake when reading my name, but I don’t mind really, so what is it you need me for? She remained adamant: She had called for Stefan Greens, not Geens.

In the rest of the world, the ending of this story would have involved me getting upset about the petty bureaucratic fanaticism of a bored airport employee with no imagination. But in Norway, this story ends with another paean to Nordic efficiency, with apologies to Uppington, who will nevertheless be gratified to know that it makes me look a little silly. For, as the airport employee explained, Stefan Greens had already come by the information desk to pick up his SAS ticket to Edinburgh. She then kindly apologized for my confusion.

Oslo

Two days in Oslo is an experience of the near future, if you’re an optimist. Everybody has a cell phone, debit/credit card use is ubiquitous, children are polite, the streets are clean, bikes rule, people are fat-free but not the food in the supermarkets… It’s a blond utopian society, where the positive-sum game of social interaction is played with a remarkable expertise that is handed down from one generation to the next. My Norwegian friend Mette mentioned a murder rate of 40 per year for 5 million odd people–compare that to New York’s 900+ murders a year spread over 10 million or so.

The honor guard at the Royal Palace certainly embodies this New Norwegian Way. At the changing of the guard, the officer on duty does not sheathe his sword or gesture with his rifle; instead, with deft, robot-like movements he hands his cell phone ceremoniously to his replacement, and marches off.

What is the secret that has turned Norwegians into the model world citizen after a well-publicized bad-boy phase around the turn of the first millenium? A homogeneous society? Centuries of plenty? A focus on rugged self-reliance and a consideration for nature? Perhaps it was the yolk of a rather stern brand of Christianity, the lasting legacy of which is mainly felt in the price of a drink around here. Add the genetic luck of the Norwegians to these prices and any Oslo bar could be a New York watering hole for the beautiful people.

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Petra photos

The black-and-white photos from my trip to Petra in January 2001 are finally sorted, scanned and presented after a fashion. Feel free to use these pictures as an excuse to buy a larger monitor–there is just too much detail in them to justify smaller picture sizes. Evidently, it’s one of the more impressive sights I’ve seen. If I find a map of the site, I’ll add that later.

My Dominican chicken recipe

My Dominican chicken recipe:

1. Make friends with someone who has a Dominican Mother (in my case, Rosa).

2. Have Dominican Mother visit New York and cook too much food so that there is leftover garlicky peppery chicken marinade.

3. Acquire this marinade somehow.

4. Buy boneless chicken breast filets and a red onion.

5. Pour the marinade over the chicken. Call Rosa and find out you’re also supposed to put salt and pepper on the chicken; but be careful: “The salt has to touch the chicken,” she warns. Pouring the salt next to the chicken won’t have the same effect.

6. Cut up the red onion, sautee it in a pan, add chicken filets.

7. Wonder aloud how long you’re supposed to cook the chicken. Poll your guests (Charles Kenny, World Bankist, and Rike Schott, glass blowerin). Agree with Charles that the longer it’s in there, the less likely you will die of salmonella.

8. Serve burnt chicken with salad and “100% real Idaho mashed potatoes” made from a box that contains shredded bits of white cardboard.

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Ephrat has a new mailing address

Ephrat has a new mailing address in Senegal. It goes as follows:

Ephrat Livni

Peace Corps

BP 5001

Passy, Senegal

(Very) intermittent email contact is also to be had. I mailed her a bunch of New Yorkers last week (the magazines, not the humans) as well as Gore Vidal’s Julian. Only fitting, really, as I’ve just restarted Graves’s Claudius The God, which was a victim of Ephrat’s voracious reading appetite last year.

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