May 2015 to May 2016 — the year in review

Here’s my year in review, mainly for the benefit of my future self. Apologies in advance for the selfie-ness of this post.

May 2015: The 2015 sailing season — my second ever — was spent on the yacht Alexandra, a step up in size from 2014. With her I would do my first proper sailing excursions during the summer, with nobody but myself to rely on when captaining the boat.

Alexandra
Alexandra

July 2015: I rented a summer cottage on an island just across from Dalarö in the Stockholm archipelago, using it as a base to sail my parents to nearby islands — including to Kymmendö, where Strindberg kept a writer’s cottage:

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Kymmendö. Click to enlarge.

My friend Joachim and I also explored the northern reaches of the archipelago on his boat, Owaissa, taking it all the way to Arholma.

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On Owaissa, somewhere in the Stockholm Archipelago.

August 2015: All this sailing practice was put to the test when Matthew and his brood — Oliver, Stella and Frances — visited Stockholm. We sailed to Sandhamn, stayed a few days, and sailed back, all without too much drama/trauma.

I also grabbed the chance to once again spend a few days at the old farm in Sechery, Belgium, where I spent endless summers as a child. My parents, my sister and her family all converged for a brief family reunion there.

October 2015: A quick trip to New York for a work-related conference on cybersecurity also proved to be the perfect excuse to perform my annual pilgrimage to the Big Apple and its fine museums. The uncontested highlight this time around was the Picasso sculpture exhibition at the MoMA, which I saw with Michelle.

Dad’s 75th birthday was celebrated with the family in Venice during the final weeks of the Biennale there. My parents, my sister and her family and I rented an apartment with a rooftop view of the city:

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Venice skyline. Click to enlarge.

We spent the week reëxploring this unique and mesmerizing place, walking and boating from museums to cafés to pavilions to restaurants. Venice gave me my first long-term memories, aged three: I remember being driven across the lagoon’s land bridge to the city, and I remember being left in the hotel kitchen under the watchful eye of the chef and the house cat while my parents eloped for a romantic night out.

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Venice, 1973

As for the Biennale: The contemporary works mostly just managed to underline the brilliant extremes reached by the masters of earlier ages. For me, the standouts were not any of the pavilions, but rather Venice’s permanent patrimony… such as the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, the Fortuny Museum, the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Museo Correr, with its massive and stunning Fra Mauro map of the known world circa 1450:

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Fra Mauro map, detail showing Scandinavia (South is up). Click to enlarge.

The week in Venice culminated with a birthday lunch for dad at Locanda Cipriani, a legendary restaurant on its own island in the lagoon. The restaurant is also legendary within the Geens family because we’d been here before… 41 years earlier, with my grandparents, and with the photo to prove it:

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Locanda Cipriana, circa 1974

Naturally, we retook that photo with a new generation of family members:

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Locanda Cipriani, circa 2015

November 2015: I spent the entire month in Yunnan, studying Chinese in Kunming on weekdays and traveling across the province on weekends. I visited Dali, an ancient local capital now colonised by Beijing hipsters; I explored the stunning vistas around Lijiang — visiting Leaping Tiger Gorge and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. I also travelled south, to the tea-cultivating region around Xishuangbanna, in China’s tropics. There I hired a car and driver and ventured into the jungles near the Myanmar border, to visit the Bulang people, among the more remote and secluded of China’s 56 ethnic groups.

Yunnan November 2015
Click above see all my photos from Yunnan in Flickr

On the way back to Europe, I refreshed my acquaintance with Shanghai, visiting two new museums that have opened since my last visit: The Long museum, with its extensive collection of propaganda art, and the Power Station of Art, an impressive industrial building still looking for a collection worthy of the space.

December 2015 – January 2016: As usual, Christmas was spent in Antwerp, with family. Back in Sweden, I bought myself a long-overdue Christmas present — a proper Internet-of-things enabled Celestron telescope, to reconnect with my first big passion, astronomy. Holding an iPhone to the back of the telescope yielded some promising early results:

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The Moon

February – March 2016: Chinese New Year was spent with friends in Uppsala, where I learned how to play (and win) at Mahjong. At the end of February I visited Eurof and his family in Geneva, and from there went skiing with him in Zermatt, meeting up with Joachim and his family. Zermatt is of course the town below the Matterhorn, which is another iconic memory from my early childhood — my parents took me here as a child, and the mountain left an indelible impression. It was good to be back after 40-odd years.

April 2016: The month saw some unexpected last-minute travel. Highlights from a visit to London include a behind-the-scenes visit to the British Museum’s papyrus archive with Ilona, and a west-end play with Jan, Shakeh and their son. I spent 24 hours in Luleå to give a talk on tech trends, and a few days in Alexandria, my favorite Egyptian city. I was there at the invitation of the Swedish Institute, to give a talk about “The Internet, how it works and who runs it” for a journalism conference. Egypt is a tense mess these days, but it was great to visit again.

May 2016: It has proved impossible to live in Stockholm for the long term without owning a place, so in May I abandoned my principled renunciation of ownership as a pursuit and instead bought an apartment near Telefonplan, Stockholm’s hipster epicenter. I will be moving there in July. Fortunately, real estate is a very liquid asset class in Sweden, easily bought and sold, so in theory owning an apartment should not constrain my options were I to decide to once again move away. But the real albatross will be all the furniture I’ll need to buy; I don’t even have chopsticks to my name.

The last 10 days of May were spent driving around Iceland with my parents. Pictures speak far louder than words here:

Iceland, May 2016
Click the above photo to see all my photos from Iceland on Flickr.

To sum up: If there is a theme to be found in the preceding year, it’s the revisiting of childhood experiences — In Venice, in Zermatt, in Sechery, and in the night sky — but not at the expense of newer pursuits — improving my sailing, improving my Chinese, and now being a home owner.

April 2014 to April 2015 — the year in review

In April, I took a road trip with Eurof and Matthew, from Geneva to Bologna, in time for the 20th anniversary reunion of the year we spent at the Bologna Center of the Johns Hopkins University School of Advanced International Studies. From the top of the Asinelli Tower, I took this 660 megapixel view of that fantastic city:

We also reshot some old photos from the exact same location, so that you can see what we looked like then, and now.

In May, I attended Stockholm Internet Forum. In my piece for The Local covering the conference, I looked at the state of Internet Freedom, and Sweden’s role in promoting that freedom.

In June, my old friend Benny M. visited Stockholm, as did my sister Francesca, who took a well-deserved break from her hectic life running a business. We visited Sandhamn together with her childhood friend Petra.

Also in June, I decided this would be the year where I learn how to sail properly. The previous year’s adventure sailing on Joachim’s boat from Kalmar to Sandhamn had merely whetted the appetite. So for 2014, I decided to share a small sailboat, Sunita, spending several weekends sailing between Rindö and Grinda with the help of James S., once even making it to Sandhamn and back. And both Joachim and Lina L. took me sailing to the outer archipelago on their boats, allowing me to — literally — learn the ropes.

At the start of 2014, some colleagues from Söderhavet and I started a sister company, Äventyret, focused on service design innovation. In June I was invited to Hong Kong to talk at the Knowledge of Design Week about how service design can help the travel industry adapt to changing social preferences. My talk is here:

Talk at Knowledge of Design Week 2014 in Hong Kong from Stefan Geens on Vimeo.

From Hong Kong, I traveled to Guilin, in Guanxi, to see the famous karst landscapes. I ended up in a fantastic little boutique hotel outside Yangshuo, borrowing a bike to explore the amazing scenery. Here is a panorama I took of some of my fellow tourists:


Punting on the Yulonghe

And here is a 2 gigapixel landscape shot of a bend in the nearby Lijiang river:

In August, after a quick trip to Copenhagen, I finally visited Göteborg for the first time. I stayed an extra day after a work pitch there to explore the city. Göteborg is lovely — like Stockholm but minus the pretentious parts.

Also in August, for the second year in a row, I attended the Nordita science writer’s workshop at Stockholm University — and promptly had my mind blown by some of the foremost researchers in the quantum computing field. I even held a qubit in my hands:

In October my parents came to visit Stockholm. A highlight was a motorboat trip from Central Stockholm to Artipelag and back. Artipelag is a new museum in the archipelago, though so far the food and surroundings outshine the exhibitions. Also in October: a trip to Visby, for work, with time for a windy walk around this historical gem.

November began with a family reunion at my sister’s place, in Wye, near Canterbury. The highlight was a road trip to Blenheim Palace, and to Bletchley Park, home of the WWII code breakers. At Blenheim we saw Ai Wei Wei’s exhibition, while at Bletchley Park we made a pilgrimage to Colossus, the world’s first computer, at the National Museum of Computing.

Then, it was off to New York, for my annual pilgrimage to visit friends and museums. The year, the visit included an impromptu road trip to Boston, to a combined birthday-party-book-signing fest, but also to visit a remarkable Goya exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts.

As always, December saw the family reunite in Antwerp, for Christmas. New Year’s, on the other hand, saw the unusual visit of Eurof and Yianna and their kids to Stockholm, which became an occasion to visit Uppsala and Sigtuna. My cousin Tom also came by Stockholm in January.

In February, there was another quick trip to Copenhagen, to visit Jacob J. and family, but I also found time to head North, to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (which I found too commercial for my liking) and to Helsingør’s fantastic new Danish Maritime Museum, situated right next to Hamlet’s castle.

Work, meanwhile, has been challenging and interesting. In January, Äventyret — as part of a consortium of companies — won the pitch to develop A large Swedish publishing house’s next generation of media products. We also developed a concept for 360Stories — a panorama story player for the Samsung GearVR virtual reality head-mounted display — on behalf of 360Cities and Samsung, and then built the app together with Prototyp, which went live in April.

February and March also saw impromptu trips to Belgium — once to attend the funeral of my uncle, Edgar Winderickx, and once to be on hand for a (successful) family surgery.

Finally, April saw the early start to a new sailing season — this time in a slightly larger boat, Alexandra.

China — a photographic update

In February, work took me to China, my stay there bookended by a weekend each in Beijing and Shanghai — time enough for some long  walks with my new go-anywhere camera, the minuscule Panasonic Lumix GM1 with the legendary 20mm F1.7 lens.

Beijing: This was my first time back since I last lived here three years ago, so I wanted to visit all my old haunts, to update my mental map of the place. The pollution reading stood at 500+, so the hazy beige hue to every view became a photographic subject in its own right. On frozen Qianhai lake, meanwhile, everyone was having huge amounts of fun avoiding collisions on the ice:

Skating on Qianhai lake in Beijing, Feb 2014 from Stefan Geens on Vimeo.

Tiananmen Square:

Shanghai: Having just read some works by Lu Xun, China’s literary giant of the 20th century, I decided to explore Hongkou, the northern section of town where he lived and where today you can visit the Lu Xun Museum and his home.

This time around I kept noticing Shanghai’s architectural heritage from the 1920s and 30s, so had a go capturing some of it. More and more of these buildings are (finally) being renovated, as opposed to just being demolished.

View of Pudong past an earlier generation of highrises:

Hongkou:

Here’s a street vendor deep in Hongkou with whom I was having a pleasant chat until being rudely interrupted by the Chengguang, urban thugs in police uniform:

Here’s the set of all 18 edited photos from the trip.

In search of Saidullah, the glassmaker of Herat

If you visit Fotografiska Museet in Stockholm by March 2, you’ll come across 100+1, a wonderful retrospective exhibition by Elliot Erwitt.

When I visited, I was intrigued by a fleeting reference in the exhibition’s introductory text to a documentary attributed to Erwitt — The Glassmakers of Herat.

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Anything that mentions Herat tends to catch my interest. Herodotus wrote about the city, Alexander the Great fortified it, the Ghurid Dynasty built it up, Genghis Khan sacked it, Tamerlane rebuilt it… Herat is also featured in some of my favorite modern travelogues: In Freya Stark’s book The Minaret of DJam, she narrates a trek across Afghanistan in 1968 that ends in Herat. In Rory Stewart’s The places in Between, he describes his walk in 2002 from Herat to Kabul.

When I later googled the title of the documentary, I immediately found it on YouTube, where it has recently been added:

The film describes how in 1968 a US pyrotechnical research expedition stumbled upon a glassmaking family in Herat still using methods first described on cuneiform tablets. In 1977, a team headed by Robert Brill, a research scientist at the Corning Museum of Glass, returned to Herat to film this living cultural patrimony, taking Erwitt along as director of photography.

The film shows two cousins, “Saifullah and Saidullah”, collecting and preparing the raw materials — stones from a nearby riverbed, ash from a desert bush, scrap copper — to produce their distinctive blue glassware. Then, in an epilogue filmed in 1979, we hear Brill warn how new strife in Afghanistan threatens the livelihood of these glassmakers. He concludes:

It’s entirely possible that the glassmaking recorded on this film could have been the last time in history that glass was ever to have been made in this way.

I wanted to find out what had happened to Saifullah and Saidullah. Did they and their livelihood survive the traumas of Afghanistan’s most recent decades? Little did I know my search would end a few weeks later with me holding their glass in my hands.

Continue reading In search of Saidullah, the glassmaker of Herat

2013: What just happened?

Here’s my year in review, mainly for the benefit of my future self. Apologies in advance for the selfie-ness of this post.

In February, after a layover in Paris to visit the Louvre, I made it to Rabat, to give a workshop on Internet security to Middle East activists, on behalf of the Swedish Institute. The main message: Be afraid and be vigilant; it is relatively easy for state agents to infiltrate your laptop and your mobile phone. Those warnings now seem quaint in light of Edward Snowden’s later revelations.

I then took the train to Fez, which had been the highlight of my trip the first time I was in Morocco, in 1991, when I backpacked all the way to Marrakesh. In the intervening 22 years, Morocco has metamorphosed into a remarkably modern country. Even Fez has changed, from a dirt-poor medieval city to a tourist destination with trendy Internet cafés and boutique hotels. The main question now: How will Fez’s famous tanneries navigate modernity? The dirty, smelly process is a photogenic tourist magnet, but it’s unhealthy for the guild workers, and uncompetitive with modern industrial processes. I took my first gigapixel photo there, to document an endangered cultural heritage:

I visited London in March, to meet an ailing friend — it turns out, for the last time. I helped bury her late in July.

Late April headed to Chongqing for a week, to see the remarkable metamorphosis of this city for myself, and to recalibrate my intuitions about China after two years of being away. I spent my days walking the streets, riverbanks and mushrooming new housing complexes, and practiced my bad but improving Chinese on the very friendly locals. Chongqing exudes a giddy optimism tempered only by the pollution that now ails all China’s cities. I did not see my shadow once all week, despite the “fair” weather.

I also headed to Chengdu for the day, via high-speed rail, streaking across a fertile basin where the occasional blurred peasants could still be seen toiling in their rice paddies.

My Chongqing photo set on Flickr.

Below is a series of video vignettes from my trip to Chongqing:

In May I attended the Stockholm Internet Forum, when it was still possible to believe that we have little to fear from the state when it comes to safeguarding human rights on the Internet. I wrote about the cause for The Local, here and here.

Early June saw me in New York and Washington DC, for my annual pilgrimage to these cultural capitals and the friends that live there. News of Edward Snowden’s whistleblowing broke while I attended Personal Democracy Forum in NYC, and it electrified the audience. Little did we know what lay in store.

Summer is best in Sweden, so I spent most of it there. First, I entertained some Belgian friends visiting Stockholm; then, I helped a friend sail his gleaming new sailboat from southern Sweden to Stockholm.

Early August, I finally managed to properly visit Scotland, driving to Skye from Glasgow with friends and spending the days walking the fells. In a fortunate bit of timing, we got see the Highland Games in Portree.

Here’s the Flickr photo set of that trip.

Later in August I attended Sweden Social Web Camp on an island off the southern Swedish coast. It’s where Sweden’s geek squad goes to hang out with kindred spirits, and a great way to recharge the batteries at summer’s end.

In September, everyone at Söderhavet, where I work, headed for Biarritz, to brainstorm the company’s future.

From there it was just a short hop to San Sebastian, the culinary capital of Europe, where we ate very well indeed.

Back in July I had pre-ordered an Swedish bitcoin mining computer, so that I could get my hands dirty with cryptocurrencies and properly understand their mechanics, rather than just theorize about them from afar. The machine arrived late October, just as bitcoin hype headed for the stratosphere, along with its value. Great timing.

KnCMiner Mercury

Early November I was in Berlin for the marriage of an old friend from my days in New York.

At Söderhavet, after a year in development, we launched Sweden’s new global identity and a revamp of its official information portal, to rave reviews.

Later in November, I once again headed to China for a week — this time, back to Shanghai, and for the first time to Suzhou and Nanjing. The trip was prompted in part by cheap tickets, a desire to catch up with my Chinese teacher in Shanghai (we continue to have Skype lessons twice a week) and other friends, but also by a newfound appreciation for the historical importance of Suzhou and Nanjing after having read a bunch of books about the Taiping civil war this past year. In Nanjing I visited the Taiping war museum, but also the Nanjing Massacre museum, which memorializes the Rape of Nanjing, where in a space of 6 weeks the invading armies of the Japanese killed over 250,000 civilians. I found it to be very moving, and remarkably restrained; yet it’s clear the place also serves as a Masada for Chinese conscripts.

As usual, I headed to Antwerp for Christmas, to spend it with my parents, my sister, and her thriving family. Before flying back out of Schiphol, I managed to visit Amsterdam‘s newly reopened Rijksmuseum after its 10-year renovation. State of the art.

Best book I read in 2013: Autumn in the Heavenly Kingdom: China, the West, and the Epic Story of the Taiping Civil War by Stephen R. Platt. It brought me all the way to Nanjing.

Best iPhone game I played in 2013: Letterpress, at which I am oddly unbeatable. There was also a late surge by Kami, but I finished that too quickly.

Best computer game I played in 2013: BioShock Infinite. Just so beautiful.

Best new tech: Easy — my Oculus Rift. Here’s why.

Best Film: Gravity.

My last ever Facebook post went something like this:

It’s become increasingly clear that Facebook has been breaking my Internet, and so my New Year’s resolution this year is to delete my account.

Sure, Facebook is convenient, but at far too high a systemic cost. Let’s list the ways:

  • Facebook friend bias: I know all about the people who post prolifically. Some of my best friends, however, don’t post often, or ever. Facebook provides a semblance of being in touch with friends, but that’s not actually the case. Instead, in 2014, I’ll be making a real effort to stay up to date with the friends that matter, one on one.
  • Too many Likes: Likes are cheap and easy, and so is the occasional facile one-liner, but that is now a problem — they are an awful proxy for actual conversation, which gets crowded out. I want my communication to get harder again because that is the price of meaningful conversation.
  • Proprietary and closed: Facebook’s business model depends on mediating relationships within a proprietary format. Open data has no place in this vision. Facebook disincentivizes timeline actions where the content and subsequent conversation is held off-platform, because it cannot monetize them there. Sure, Twitter and Linkedin have a similar problem, but these platforms are just now far less ubiquitous than Facebook. It’s Facebook’s size that undermines the sustainability of an open web, so I feel I should help mitigate the problem by withdrawing my vote.
  • Low signal to noise: Twitter is far better at telling me what I should read online. Linkedin is more relevant for work. Flickr has far higher quality photos. Feedly is getting smarter about which articles in my RSS feed collection I should pay attention to. Facebook is best as a tool for procrastination through meme propagation — and that is probably something I need less of.
  • Panopticon: Hey NSA, let me help you make your haystack a little smaller by removing my bit of it.
  • You are not a gadget: To paraphrase Jaron Lanier, I am not my Facebook account. Facebook is an imperfect window into my soul. A far better soul-baring tool would be my blog. Recently, I’ve had a real urge to start writing longer-format stuff again. Facebook becomes a distraction.

I’ve always suspected it could end this way with Facebook, so I’ve made sure since the start to hedge my investment in this platform: I’ve never uploaded media exclusively to Facebook, but linked instead to Flickr and my own sites, even when Facebook started throttling the eyeballs for such posts. I also made sure to never use Facebook as my single sign-on. As a result, the severing should be relatively bloodless.

I’ll leave this post up until the end of January 1 before doing the deed. From now on, do reach me at stefan.geens@gmail.com. I also have some great posts planned for stefangeens.com. See you on the other side. Happy New Year!

Update: I feel I should add a screenshot of the Facebook comments this post generated: Continue reading My last ever Facebook post went something like this: